【直报网1月14日讯】（中国联合商报）2014年底,国家食品药品监督管理总局对《化妆品监督管理条例(征求意见稿)》(以下简称《条例》)公开征求意见。《条例》明确规定了禁止标注的内容,包括明示或者暗示具有医疗作用；夸大功能或者容易给消费者造成误解或者混淆的内容等。其中特别提出,化妆品的功效宣称应当有充分的试验或者评价数据支持。产品宣称经功效验证机构测试并出具报告的,标签中可标注相关验证信息；未经验证的,应当在描述宣称的功效作用内容结尾标注“上述功效未经验证”等字样。

CNDSN January 14th news [] (Chinese joint business) regulations by the end of 2014, the State Administration of food and drug supervision and management of cosmetics supervision and management "(Draft)" (hereinafter referred to as the "Regulations") to solicit public opinions. "Ordinance" clearly stipulates the prohibition of tagging content, including express or implied with medical function; exaggerating the function or easy to give consumers cause misunderstanding or confusion content etc.. The proposed specially, the efficacy of cosmetic products claim should have sufficient test or evaluation data support. Product claims by efficacy validation mechanism test and issue a report, label can be marked relevant validation information; untested, ought to be in effect declared role description content marked "the end effect of unproven" and other words.

国内药妆品市场方兴未艾

Domestic cosmeceutical market be just unfolding

按照《条例》要求,化妆品现在不得在宣传中明示或者暗示其具有医疗作用,可针对以“药”立足的药妆究竟要遵循什么标准,却还是一个未知数。药妆市场在我国虽然具有市场潜力,但相对于其在欧美市场多年的良好业绩表现而言,目前国内药妆市场尚缺乏统一标准与销售渠道。

According to the "Regulations" requirements, cosmetics now not express or implied with the medical role in propaganda, can according to "drug" is based on the cosmeceutical what should follow what standard, but still a mystery. The cosmeceutical market in China it has market potential, but compared to the years of good performance in Europe and the United States market performance, the current domestic cosmetic market is still a lack of unified standards and sales channels.

药妆品的概念来源于欧美,最早提出药妆品是用于描述具有活性的或有科学依据的一类化妆品,源于医学护肤的概念,兼有药物治疗和美容护肤的作用,它们也被称为功能性化妆品或活性化妆品。1998年,法国著名化妆品品牌薇姿(Vichy)首次登陆中国化妆品市场,为中国消费者带来药妆的概念。

Cosmeceutical concept originated in the United States, most early proposed the cosmeceutical is used to describe the active or science based cosmetics, derived from the concept of medical skin care, both drug therapy and beauty skin care role, they are also called functional cosmetics cosmetics or activity. In 1998, the famous French cosmetics brand Vichy (Vichy) first landed in Chinese cosmetics market, bring the cosmeceutical concept for Chinese consumers.

在我国,药妆品指的是以天然成分为原料,具有针对性较强的疗效性化妆品,其配方精简且必须完全公开,所有有效成分及安全性须经医学文献和皮肤科临床测试证明,且不含公认的致敏源,较一般的护肤品功效显著。药妆在国际上很流行,在中国一些大城市也有趋热表现,但国内药妆品质量良莠不齐、鱼龙混杂,药用护肤品的消费水平与国外相比也存在很大差距。

In our country, cosmeceutical refers to the natural ingredients as raw materials for cosmetic efficacy, with strong, compact and its formula must be completely open, all the effective components and safety shall be subject to the medical literature and clinical department of Dermatology test proof, and does not contain putative allergen, more general skin care efficacy significantly. Drug is very popular in the world, in some big city Chinese have become hot, but the domestic cosmeceutical quality uneven, some good and some bad, dragons and fishes jumbled together, medicinal skin care products consumption level compared with foreign countries there exists a great gap.

而值得注意的是,药妆市场一直有一线品牌强势涉足,宝洁,联合利华、柏丽丝、索芙特、舒蕾等都有药妆产品。这样也导致一方面厂家之间鏖战,大家都在争国内市场,厂家成本在提高,带来了对经销 代理 商的直接压力,现在利润空间被压缩得很小,而对经销代理商的回款压力却是与日俱增;另一方面,众多一线品牌的强力出击,也进一步强化了消费者对于品牌的认可和忠诚度。

Notably, the cosmeceutical market has always been a strong set foot in the first-line brand, Procter & Gamble, Unilever, Bo Lisi, Soft, Shu Lei and so on have cosmeceutical products. This also led to fighting between a manufacturer, everyone in the competition in domestic market, manufacturers cost while improving, bring direct pressure on the distribution agent business, now the profit space is compressed to very small, but the pressure to return is agents grow with each passing day; on the other hand, a strong attack number of first-line brand, but also strengthen the consumers' brand recognition and loyalty.

Cosmeceutical no unified standard for lack of supervision

在我国,药妆呈现出几个特点。首先,化妆品定义中并无药妆品的说法。目前我国并没有针对药妆的批准文号,国家对化妆品的管理规范中,对用于染发、烫发、祛斑、防晒等用途的化妆品统称为特殊用途化妆品,批号“卫妆特”,而普通的化妆品批号为“卫妆准”。特殊用途化妆品的申报程序比较严格,投放市场前必须进行产品卫生安全评价,包括卫生学检验、毒理学试验、人体安全试验、相关功效成分及使用依据等。但目前国内药妆品宣传的功效已明显超出特殊用途化妆品的范畴,如宣传包括美白、保湿、抗炎和抗氧化等作用。

In our country, the cosmeceutical exhibits several characteristics. First of all, the definition of a cosmetic is no cosmeceutical argument. At present our country not to the approval number of cosmeceutical, management norms of the state on cosmetics, for Hair Coloring, perm, freckle, sunscreen cosmetics are collectively referred to as special cosmetics, batch number "Wei makeup special", and cosmetics lot ordinary as "quasi Wei makeup". Cosmetics for special use reporting procedures more stringent, must carry on the product health and safety evaluation on the market before, including hygiene inspection, toxicology test, human safety trials, efficacy component and use basis. But at present domestic cosmeceutical propaganda effect already beyond the obvious special cosmetics category, such as whitening, moisturizing, publicity including anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects.

国内药妆品主要通过药店销售,但安全性及功效性评价缺乏法律监管,没有统一标准。药妆品标签主要以“卫妆准”字为主,极少数是“卫妆特”字,更没有“药准字”的 化妆品 。

Domestic cosmeceutical main sales through pharmacies, but the safety and efficacy of the lack of legal regulation, there is no uniform standard. Cosmeceutical label mainly "Wei makeup quasi" word, very few is "Wei makeup special word," no more "medicine accurate" cosmetics.

其次,在我国,药妆市场多由传统药企涉猎。由于受传统业务增速放缓、降价等原因的影响, 药品 业务的发展空间正在不断被压缩。据悉,截至目前,包括同仁堂、白云山、康恩贝等上市药企均已涉足日化领域。然而,在日化领域,药企的药妆战略并不乐观。

Secondly, in our country, many from the traditional pharmaceutical companies to dabble in cosmeceutical market. Because of because of the impact on traditional business slowdown, such as price, the development space of the drug business is constantly being compressed. It is reported, so far, including Tang, Baiyun Mountain, Conba etc. were has been involved in the daily chemical field of listed pharmaceutical companies. However, in the field of daily chemical industry, pharmaceutical drug strategy is not optimistic.

业内专家表示,作为传统医药企业 ,步入药妆产业还是稳健并且有一定优势的。传统医药研发风险大,药妆品介于化妆品和药品之间,不像药品那么严格且风险大,利润空间高些,也可以形成一定的关联资源,销售上可以连锁店销售,更加简易化。但是,传统医药企业做药妆,最重要的还是怎样切入,不仅仅是依靠品牌的影响力去让消费者去认知,因为那样的话有可能适得其反。▲

Industry experts said, as a traditional medicine enterprises, into the cosmeceutical industry still robust and have certain advantages. Traditional medicine research and development risks, between cosmeceutical between cosmetics and drugs, not drugs so strict and high risk, high profit space, also can form the association resources, sales can chain store sales, more simple. However, the traditional pharmaceutical enterprises to drugstore, the most important is how to, not just rely on the brand influence to allow consumers to cognition, because then there may run counter to one's desire. *

（原标题：禁止化妆品宣传疗效 药妆品无统一标准或陷尴尬境地）

(original title: the prohibition of propaganda effect of cosmetics cosmeceuticals no uniform standards or depression embarrassment)

责任编辑：婉婉

Editor: Che Wan Wan